Sunday, February 7, 2010

Nonna Apa


Naming your restaurant after the grandmother that taught you how to cook is a pretty serious commitment to quality. The place better be good. Nonna Apa (105 Clinton Street) delivers on the promise of excellence implicit in its name.

It serves what might be the finest pizza slices in the Lower East Side neighborhood. Pies are made with homemade dough, very fresh ingredients, and strict attention to detail by the owner himself. The square slices (Magic Slices) are especially worth seeking out, crispy and very flavorful. If anyone ever asks you what's so special about New York pizza, take them to Nonna Apa.

The meatball hero sandwich served here is also exceptional. The meatballs are homemade according to an old family recipe, and the sandwich is carefully constructed with a perfect balance of sauce and mozzarella. Definitely try this one.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

Lower East Side: Food Treasures for the Chronically Cheap

Are you planning a visit to New York City? Are you worried about spending too much money? Cut down on dining expenses. Despite perceptions to the contrary, shared by many affluent New Yorkers as well as tourists, this is one of the cheapest cities in the United States for foodies.

It is definitely possible to eat very well on less than $10 a meal in New York City. In fact, eating cheap is actually an amazing way to uncover the city’s best cuisine.

New York has historically been a major point of entry for immigrants to America. They have always brought distinct cultural- and culinary- influences to the city. This is as true today as it was a century ago, and exploring the ethnic offerings around town can be a delicious adventure.

To start out on a memorable and cheap foodie tour of the city, orient yourself toward the traditional epicenter of immigrant life, the historical Lower East Side. South of 14th Street, and east of Broadway, inexpensive delicacies abound.

Enjoying what is considered by many to be the best Mexican food in the city requires overcoming preconceptions of what a restaurant should be. Zaragoza (215 Avenue A- at 13th Street) in the East Village is just a little bodega with a microwave and a few simple tables in back. The incredibly welcoming family that runs the place brings in a rotating selection of perfectly braised meats, and makes truly awesome burritos ($6) for their devoted customers.

If you hit up Zaragoza, be sure to try the braised pork, goat, or lengua. And if they happen to have chicken mole that day, do not miss it, as it seriously might be the single loveliest mole to be found in New York City. Grab a 36 oz Tecate from the refrigerator, kick back with the very friendly regulars playing Mexican music on the jukebox, and dig in to one of the most authentic food values in town.

Another source of delicious and affordable sustenance in the city is cart food. More specifically, halal cart food. The stand-out in this category in the East Village is Hamed’s Halal, on the southeast corner of 11th Street and 1st Avenue. The guys that work this cart dish up huge portions of grilled, spiced lamb and chicken over rice for $5.

If the Hamed’s guys know you or are feeling generous, they’ll often throw a few falafels and fries on top, which actually adds a really nice complexity and heft to this delicious Middle Eastern meal. It is perfect for taking to Tompkins Square, which is just around the way. A word of warning is in order though: do not cut in line. A gentleman was stabbed to death by a fellow patron for just this offense not long ago. People take their Hamed’s food kind of seriously. You’ll understand once you try it.

Every budget-conscious visitor to New York is probably already thinking about pizza. The thing is, some places are better than others. The really good, really famous places (Lombardi’s, Grimaldi’s, John’s, etc) do not sell by the slice, and can make for relatively expensive meals. The real trick is to find a good place for slices.

One perennial favorite in the slice category is Rosario’s, located at 173 Orchard Street (between Houston and Stanton) on the Lower East Side. This place is nothing fancy, but always has a wide selection of fresh pizzas waiting for their rather enthusiastic (read: drunk) customers. Pick two that catch your fancy, and get set to gorge yourself for under $7. The cheeseburger slice, which actually tastes like its namesake, is always a solid choice. The eggplant, fresher than other places, is another great topping to choose.

The best values on the eastside, and arguably in the city as a whole, are waiting to be found in Chinatown. In general, any place that has a long line of old Chinese people is a good bet for quality and value. Once in a while you discover a Chinatown miracle, a restaurant that serves food much cheaper than it would cost to make at home.

Probably the best deal you’ll find on your trip to New York is Prosperity Dumpling, located at 46 Eldridge Street. This absolutely tiny hole in the wall serves ten decent quality pork and chive dumplings for $2, and especially tasty sesame pancakes for $1. Spend $3 per person and you’ll have way too much food. The space inside is pretty limited, so grab a seat quickly if you plan to stay. Otherwise, take yours to go and find a nice bench at Sara D. Roosevelt Park, which is a block to the west.

If you are craving some surprisingly good Chinese barbecue, and are especially cheap and/or homeless, go straight to Wah Fung #1 Fast Food. Located at 79 Chrystie Street just north of Hester Street, this place would be impossible to find were it not for the constant presence of a line of the aforementioned variety.

Get in it, get out your $2.50 for the small, and get ready to eat a sickeningly large quantity of Chinese barbecue pork or duck with cabbage over rice. The sweaty man with the large cleaver, hacking up your duck or pork on a worn-down stump, does not speak much English. But he’s about to be your new best friend.